酒道无极

园艺学

葡萄是一种生命力顽强的植物。它们可以抵御干旱，并且可以在坚硬贫瘠的土地上生存。如果给予葡萄精心的照顾，它可以不断结果20年到30年。

景观学
一串串的葡萄长在栅栏上或者是凉亭上，是它在景观当中最好的利用方式。它可以划分地产的边界，增加私密性，避免不受欢迎的窥视并且增加景观的情趣。

用心轴支架种植葡萄可以获得很强的装饰效果，但是这会让修建工作变得困难。

葡萄需要充足的阳光，它可以适应各种土壤，但是透水性是最基础的要求。一个可以让它们照射到充足阳光的位置是最好的。

究竟在景观中使用何种葡萄，取决于你有多少闲暇时间，以及对水果的需求。这些要素同时决定了种植葡萄的数量。除草，修建，绑枝，喷药都是必需的园艺工作。在大多数情况下，6到12株葡萄的数量比较合适。每株成熟的葡萄可以生产10到12磅的果实。

栽培品种的选择

因为苗圃可以提供各式各样的葡萄品种，你可以凭着自己对果实颜色，味道，成熟时间的要求，以及烹饪需要进行选择。尽量选择有抗病能力的品种是神恶魔必要的。

种植时间

种植时间选在冬末春初，泥土也便于耕作。葡萄幼苗可以承受夏天的极端天气。密苏里州南部F在二月末，北部在四月中旬都是最佳的种植时间。

特地对土地进行处理不一定有必要。深耕只在土地板结或者过于坚硬的情况下，施肥只在土地需要补充营养的时候。这些准备工作应该在春天或者是早春进行。土壤测试可以确定土地是否缺乏营养。可以把土壤样品送到当地的测试中心，这样可以得到精确的数据，保证土壤得到自己所需的营养。

选择植株

健壮的一年株是最佳的选择。两年的植株会更加的昂贵，而且一般不比一年株长的有多好。

从名声好的苗圃购买幼苗，可以保证植株的品质与名字相符合，还能抵御病虫害。

种植窍门

为了保证充足的空间，每株葡萄之间应该相隔8英尺。检查植株的根部，切除坏掉或者是受损的部分，过于长的根须也需要切除。

挖足够大的洞，使得植株的根以自然形态舒展。当它们在苗圃里的时候，应该都中在同样的深度。用表土覆盖植株的根部，压实土壤，挤走空气，保证根部和土壤充分的接触。在根部附近留出一条小沟，在里面倒上水。这样可以使得当根部需要水分的时候，土壤可以及时提供。然后再往洞里倒水，水线与沟里的相同。

耕作
葡萄对耕作的要求不高，要想得到好的产出，往往需要葡萄架下至少有一片4英尺大小的杂草区。各种各样的护根形式可以创造出需要的景观。避免使用过于丰盛的有机物护根，因为它们有可能释放出氮，导致不均衡的植株成熟、过于强壮的藤，和较差的耐寒性。

化肥

适当的化肥可以促进幼苗的生长，维持结果植株的精力。单一的化肥使用配方不能够适合所有的情况，因为土地和其他因素的影响。在制定施肥计划之前，必需做土壤测试，以此为依据。

病虫害

有一些虫子会损害葡萄。想要获得优质的葡萄，就得进行持续的病虫害管理。葡萄果蛾是一种常见的虫害。这种小小的绿色的虫子专吃果实。如同楔形的可以跳跃的小虫子叫叶蝉，专吃叶子。严重的病害可能会影响植物的生长，甚至阻碍果实的结实。水蜡虫和叶甲科甲虫也能导致损失。

黑腐病是一种流行疾病而且制造大量损害。这种病首先攻击叶子然后传播到果实上。实际上，果实会很快变得像烟熏一样黑、迅速枯萎，然后变得毫无价值。其他的真菌病还有多毛病和白粉病。

真菌病害一般发生在叶子较为密集且通风不良潮湿的部位，这种时候就不得不使用化学药剂。适当的修剪枝叶保证阳光的穿透率和空气的流通，将会避免或者减少这类病害的发生。

冠瘿病，是一种细菌类病害，一般发生在严寒的冬天之后，低处的树干和受损的藤条上，会出现胆状的或者肉质的瘤子。被感染的藤条要修剪干净，这样有利于长出新的藤条。

收获&果实的成熟

颜色的改变并不是成串的葡萄成熟的唯一标志。当葡萄成熟的时候，果实的种子，葡萄藤也会变成棕色，还有有点皱褶，会从绿色变成棕色，果实会变得十分香甜。
临近收获，必需时刻保持对葡萄的关注，某些品种的葡萄很难达到完全的成熟和甜美。是因为它们成熟过程被过大的果实串破坏了。收获期间的大雨也许会导致果实表面爆裂。鸟儿们也会捷足先登，啄走成熟的葡萄。

葡萄果实颜色的变化与阳光的照射并无直接关系。颜色的变化取决于叶片制造并传输给果实的糖分。叶片本身并不需要阳光就能制造糖分。

为了避免鸟儿们造成的损失，减少极端天气造成的影响，获得高质量的果实，可以将葡萄串在还是半棕色的时候包裹起来。用大小合适的棕色的牛皮纸包小心的绑在藤条上。包裹的数量取决于有多少工作的时间和人力。临近收获的时候，如果包裹无法进行，而鸟儿们又有可能造成损失，可以用网把葡萄架保护起来。

英文原文：

Department of Horticulture
Grapes are sturdy plants. They stubbornly withstand drought and can succeed even in rocky, infertile soils. Given reasonable care, grape vines remain productive for 20 to 30 years.
Landscaping with grapes
For the best use, train grapes along an existing border fence or on a special trellis. This serves to set off property boundaries, add privacy, screen undesirable views or add landscape interest.
Using an arbor for support may have greater ornamental value, but it makes cultural operations more difficult.
Give grapes full sun. Grapes tolerate a wide range of soils, but good water drainage is essential. A site exposed to full sun is best.
The type of landscape use, amount of leisure time available, and desire for fruit are considerations in determining the number of plants you need to plant. Weeding, pruning, tying and spraying are necessary cultural operations. In most instances, six to 12 grape plants are enough. Each mature plant should produce about 10 to 12 pounds of fruit.
Choice of cultivars
Because nurseries offer a number of cultivars, you have a choice of fruit colors, flavors, ripening times and culinary uses. Choose disease-resistant cultivars when possible. Table 1 lists a number of cultivars worthy of consideration.
Planting time
Plant in late winter or early spring as soon as soil can be worked. Early-set plants are more able to withstand summer weather extremes. From late February in southern Missouri to mid-April in northern Missouri are preferred planting times.
Special soil preparation may not be necessary. Deep spading or tilling may be required if the area is heavily sodded or compacted or if it needs corrective fertilizer treatments. Make these preparations in fall for earlier spring planting. A soil test will indicate whether a nutrient deficiency exists. Soil samples may be submitted to your county MU Extension center, which can recommend corrective treatments.
Selecting plants
Vigorous year-old plants are best. Nurseries list these as One Year – number 1s.
Two-year-old plants are more expensive and generally don’t grow any better than one-year-old plants.
Purchase plants from a reputable nursery that guarantees high-quality plants that are true to name and are disease free.
Table 1
Characteristics of grape cultivars
White table grapes1
Cultivars Season Remarks
Himrod Early Seedless, good flavor, medium-size clusters and fruit.
Golden Muscat Late Large clusters, distinctive flavor, ripens unevenly; for southern areas only.
Red or blue table grapes1
Cultivars Season Remarks
Canadice Very Early Seedless, red fruit, excellent dessert-quality, medium-size berries.
Concord Late-Mid Universal standard of quality. Blue fruit, widely adapted except Bootheel areas. Good for wine, juice and jelly as well.
Challenger Early-Mid Seedless, red fruit, good flavor; fairly hardy; large, loose clusters of large fruit.
Mars Early-Mid Seedless, blue fruit; fairly hardy, disease tolerant.
Reliance Early-Mid Seedless, red fruit, good flavor, hardy, good-size clusters, medium-size fruit.
Venus Early Seedless, blue, good flavor, medium-size to large fruit, fairly hardy.
White wine grapes1
Cultivars Season Remarks
Catawba Late Makes a dry or sweet wine; vines vigorous, large berries.
Delaware Midseason High sugar content; good-quality white wine; vines lack vigor.
Seyval blanc Midseason Excellent wine; usually hardy.
Niagra Midseason Good fresh or used for wine, juice or jelly; large fruit, foxy flavor.
Vidal blanc Mid-Late Excellent wine; usually hardy; vigorous, long clusters, medium berries; makes beautiful trellis or arbor.
Vignoles Midseason Excellent wine; usually hardy; very susceptible to diseases.
Villard Blanc Midseason Excellent wine; for central and southern areas.
Red or blue wine grapes1
Cultivars Season Remarks
Chancellor Midseason Good wine; very susceptible to diseases.
Cynthiana, Norton Late Excellent wine; usually hardy; disease tolerant.
deChaunac Early-Mid Good wine; hardy, productive.
1Table (fresh, jelly, juice) or wine refers to their primary use. Many of these cultivars have multiple uses.
Planting tips
With most cultivars trained to a cordon system, 8 feet between plants is desirable.
Inspect the roots and cut off broken or damaged portions. Also shorten excessively long roots.
Dig the planting holes large enough to accommodate the roots placed in their natural position. Set the plants at about the same depth as they grew at the nursery. Cover the roots with topsoil and pack to eliminate pockets of air and to ensure good root-soil contact. Some additional tamping should be done as the hole is filled. Leave a shallow basin around the plant and fill it with water. This will settle the soil around the roots as well as supply needed moisture. Later fill the hole until it is level with the surrounding soil.
No fertilizer is necessary at planting. Fertilizer placed in the hole may be injurious to the plant.
Cultivation
Grapes respond well to shallow cultivation. The best production is likely to be attained if a weed-free area at least 4 feet wide is maintained under the trellis. Mulches of various kinds can be used to create a more desirable landscape effect. Avoid most rich, organic mulches because they may release nitrogen too long into the season and contribute to uneven ripening, overvigorous canes and poor winter hardiness.
Fertilizer
Moderate amounts of fertilizer promote growth of young plants and maintain vigor of bearing plants. No single fertilizer program is ideally suited to all situations because of wide variations among soils and other factors. A soil test should be taken to plan a program best suited for the particular soil.
A complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 can be used in a grape fertilization program (Table 2). Spread the fertilizer in a circular band 12 to 18 inches away from the base of the plants. This distance should be increased to about 2 or 3 feet as plants reach mature size. Mix the fertilizer about 2 inches deep into the soil to enable roots to obtain nutrients more readily and reduce loss by runoff during heavy rains.
Observation and judgment should also guide the amount of fertilizer used for grapes. Maintain plants moderately vigorous and productive. Avoid excessive or weak growth.
Fruiting canes should be 1/4 to 3/8 inch in diameter (slightly larger than a pencil) and 4 to 6 feet long. Vary the fertilizer rate in accordance with the growth observed.
Table 2
Fertilization program for grapes
Year Amount per plant Remarks
1 1/4 cup Apply as new growth appears; repeat 1 month later
2 1 cup Apply when buds swell
3 1 to 1-1/2 cups Apply when buds swell
Fourth and beyond 1 to 2 cups Apply when buds swell
Insects and diseases
Several pests commonly damage grapes. Some form of pest management is necessary to consistently grow good-quality fruit.
The grape berry moth is a common pest. The small greenish larvae feed in the berries. Small, wedge-shaped jumping insects, called leafhoppers, feed on grape foliage. Severe damage restricts growth and interferes with fruit ripening. Mealybugs and flea beetles also can cause injury.
A fungus disease, called black rot, is widely prevalent and often damaging. The disease first attacks the foliage and later spreads to the fruit. Infected berries soon become blackened, shriveled and worthless. Other fungus diseases are downy and powdery mildews.
Fungal diseases usually thrive in dense foliage that does not dry quickly, necessitating chemical control of the diseases. Appropriate pruning and training that encourages light penetration and air movement will help eliminate or decrease the severity of these diseases.
Crown gall, a bacterial disease, often occurs following an extremely cold winter. Galls or fleshy tumors appear on the lower trunk of injured vines. Infected canes should be pruned at the soil surface. New shoots originating from the base of the plant can be selected and trained to replace infected canes.
Harvesting and fruit maturity
Color is not the only indicator of maturity in bunch grapes. When grapes are ripe, grape seeds change from green to brown, the cluster stem turns brownish and slightly wrinkled, and the berries attain maximum sweetness.
Grapes must be closely watched near harvest. Some cultivars rarely reach the peak of ripeness or sweetness because they shatter from the bunch before fully ripe. Excessive rains during harvest may cause splitting of skins. Birds may find the ripening grapes first.
Grapes do not require direct sunlight on the berries for color development. Color development is governed by the amount of sugars produced by the leaves and translocated to the fruit. The leaves do need sunlight to produce the sugars.
To prevent bird damage, reduce excessive weather damage and, in general, have higher quality fruit, bag the clusters when they are about half grown. Use brown kraft bags of suitable size and tie securely to the grape cane. The amount of bagging done will depend on how much time and effort are available. Where bagging is not practical and bird damage is likely, netting can be used to cover the vines as ripening approaches.

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这篇文章发布于 2009年10月12日，星期一，1:50 下午，归类于 酒风酒歌。 您可以跟踪这篇文章的评论通过 RSS 2.0 feed。 您可以留下评论，或者从您的站点trackback。